Sailing from Panama to Colombia

This post was originally written in 2012

The pieces of information that you pick up from other travellers can be invaluable. Sometimes it's a recommendation on which town to visit and which to avoid, where to stay, or in this case how to get from one place to another. During my trip to Central America in 2010, I was given the name of a hostel that organises sailing trips from Panama to Colombia.

The trip leaves from Portobelo on the Caribbean side of Panama and goes through the San Blas islands before 2 days on open sea to get to Cartagena. It turns out there are two hostels in Panama City that can organise the sailing trips to Colombia, Luna's Castle which was the one recommended to me and Mamallena where I ended up staying.

In November last year, I left Panama City for Puerto Lindo to sail on the Perla del Caribe. I met up with a friend who was on the trip in 2010, and we were both pretty excited having been anticipating this for about a year. The trip was 5 nights in total, including 3 nights in San Blas. Our captain's name was Sebastian, and he along with his girlfriend Brenda and their dog would be taking us to Cartagena.
We arrived in Puerto Lindo around 11 am after getting a lift from the owners of Mamallena. The night before they had taken us to a Pearl Jam concert - definitely a highly recommended hostel! In true evidence of "Latino Time", we spent the entire day hanging around in Puerto Lindo waiting for Sebastian to be ready to leave, and made the best of the time by drinking just about all of the beer available in pretty much the only restaurant in the town.

When we finally made it on the boat, our first night was spent having dinner at twilight in the harbour, before starting what would be become our favourite (and only) night time activity for the next 5 days, Uno. We sailed overnight to our first stop in the San Blas. I was in no hurry to head inside and ended up falling asleep on the deck. It wasn't the most comfortable place to sleep, but the cool air, clear sky covered with stars (I was trying to locate the Southern Cross on the horizon) and gentle rocking of the boat made it a perfect night.

The next morning we woke up to paradise, we had stopped next to a small, uninhabited island which was our stop for the day. After breakfast, we had a short moment of "now what?" before we realised that we didn't need to do anything other than swim, relax and enjoy the island. Consisting of just under 400 islands, of which only 49 are inhabited, scattered in the Caribbean waters along the Panamanian coast, San Blas is a haven of stunning beauty. Over the next 3 days, we visited 4 different islands. The first day was spent snorkeling, jumping off the boat and sun baking. On the second afternoon we were visited by some Kuna people living on a nearby island who were selling handmade bracelets. After we bought a few things, we also realised they were selling our dinner - fresh lobster. With all our meals prepared for us on the boat, we were definitely spoiled!

Our final day in San Blas, Sebastian brought us to a quiet location and stopped in the middle of 3 islands, all within swimming distance of the boat. The hot nights we had on the boat were made worthwhile with perfect weather during the day. I decided it was time to get a tan, but if you ask me if I got sunburnt my answer will probably be less than the truth. We headed for the closest island first and spent the morning lying in the shallow water and discussing plans for when we got to Colombia. Looking back now, I'm not really sure it was necessary to be doing anything that involved forward thinking!

In the afternoon we swam to a different island, and things got interesting one of the guys on the boat mentioned that he felt like running around the island. We tried to guess how far it was, and I volunteered to run with him to find out. We could tell he was quietly competitive, and I didn't mention that I'm a runner. The aftermath of me beating him gave us some alternate entertainment to Uno! (For the record, it took me about 1 min and 5 seconds to run, some of these islands are tiny!).

That night it was time to sail to Colombia, and we woke up the following morning surrounded by nothing but open sea. By about half way through the day we were really missing San Blas. It was extremely hot, but that problem was easily solved when the boat was stationary by jumping into the water. When someone on the boat accidentally dropped a cushion into the water and we had to go back and get it, we were all fighting to volunteer to jump in and get it. In the end, we all went swimming, trying not to think about how deep the water was and what could be down there.

Our final night on the Perla del Caribe, we got an epic storm. We were told we would all have to go inside when it started raining, but I didn't realise how bad it was until the next morning. I had been sleeping on one of the chairs in the kitchen section of the boat, and was woken up suddenly when I felt cold water bucketing down on me. The window in the roof above me was open, and in my half-asleep state I didn't give too much thought to how it got inside, instead just dried off, closed the window, ignored everyone laughing at me and went back to sleep. The following morning, Sebastian told me it was the result of a wave crashing over the front of the boat. I'm pretty glad I didn't know!

Making our way into Cartagena was both exciting and sad. It was my first time in South America after 3 times in Central America, and I'd heard so many great things about Colombia. But after 5 days I feeling kind of attached to our boat, the crew and especially their dog. That feeling disappeared pretty quickly when I put my feet back on dry land, and realised that a real shower and bed weren't too far away! I probably shouldn't mention that Sebastian was taking care of our immigration formalities, but since the offices were closed on the day we arrived, we were technically illegal for about 24 hours.. Oops!

Sailing trips can be organised through hostels in Panama City and Cartagena, and cost approx. $450 per person including meals.

My top 3 things to do in LA

This post was originally written in July 2011, and updated in June 2016.

Because there is much more to LA than Hollywood!

Farmers Market Food Tasting Tour
If you like to eat, this is the best thing to do in LA. It was recommended to me by a friend, and it definitely didn’t disappoint! The tour starts at Farmers Markets and walks down 3rd St to the Beverly Centre, stopping along the way to sample food from cafes, bakeries and restaurants. I can be a picky eater, but there was nothing I didn’t try. My favourites were the tasty meats from the Brazilian BBQ restaurant in the markets, with the monkey bread from Thee's Continental Pastries and doughnuts from Bob's Doughnuts close behind. I loved this tour so much, I think I ended up doing it two more times with different friends, and booking it for my sister.

I also later did their East LA Latin Flavours tour, which explored some of the city's best dining secrets. We were treated to amazing tamales and pupusas, toured a tortilla factory and tried some unique desserts. The best part however, was meeting the people who ran the restaurants, and hearing their stories about living in Los Angeles and how the meals that had been passed through their families for generations became their way of life. This tour might have been even better than the Farmers Market tour!

These tours are run by Melting Pot Tours. My experiences are from 2010 to 2013, they might visit different restaurants now.

Ocean Rafting at Catalina Island
Technically not in LA, but pretty close, I went to Catalina Island during my second US trip. I went for a day, taking the ferry from Long Beach in the morning and returning later that night. I got lunch at one of the restaurants when I arrived, and had booked an ocean rafting tour for the afternoon.
The tour started by departing from Avalon Harbour, and went around the island to a nearby snorkling spot. The water was a bit cold, but I got some great photos with my underwater camera. Next we headed out from the island in search of dolphins, which we were lucky enough to see, then finished the afternoon with a stop at Two Harbours before returning to Avalon. The tour I did in mid 2011 might not exist anymore, but looking at the website while updating the post, I think they actually have better tours now!

Catalina Ocean Rafting

Runyon Canyon Park
I love this park! I think I have been there on every visit to LA since I originally wrote this post. Accessed from the top off a quiet street off Hollywood Boulevard, you wouldn't stumble on it by accident. This was something I decided to do after I had visited the city a couple of time and was looking for an alternative things to do. Best of all, it’s free!
I first visited the park one afternoon when I had a few days in LA on my way home from Central America. It was a clear day, so the views of the city and the sign were great. The leafy open space at the entrance of the park and the dirt trails leading up leading up through hills can trick you into believing you are no longer in a big city. I walked from the N Fuller Ave entrance to Mullholland Drive, it’s definitely something I would recommend to anyone visiting the city.

How to do Rio on a budget

This post was originally written in 2012

Whether you arrive in Brazil at the start or the end of your South American journey, one thing that is unavoidable is that it will be more expensive that every other country you visit. Some travellers like to start there so everything gets cheaper after they leave. Others (myself included) leave it until the end, and even though we know it’s going to cost more than we have been used to living on in the likes of Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, don’t really realise how much until we get there.
The place in Brazil where prices are notably highest is Rio. When I arrived there in January of this year, it was my last stop in South America and I was running very short on money. After 3 months of paying $10 a night for a hostel, I knew I was going to struggle with paying closer to $30 a night in Rio. And when some of my friends were going for steak dinners and I was saving extra bread rolls from the free hostel breakfast to eat for lunch, it could have been a very long week.

As it turned out, I had an amazing time in Rio and it didn’t matter at all that I didn’t have a lot to spend. There a lot of ways to see and do the many amazing things on offer without spending a great deal, especially if you know some basic Portuguese and do a bit of planning in advance.

Where to stay

The hostel that I paid approx. $27 USD a night for a 9 bed dorm was in Ipanema. With its shady, tree covered streets, spectacular sunset and abundance of restaurants and bars, Ipanema is the most ideal place to stay in Rio, which also makes it the most expensive. If you want to stay at the beach and save a bit of money, Copacabana is a great choice. Boasting its own long stretch of sand, views of Pão de Açúcar and vibrant nightlife, you will have an amazing time here.  The two beaches are within walking distance of each other, and the bonus of staying in Copacabana is that hostels here are a few dollars cheaper a night than the ones in Ipanema. If staying at the beach is not high on your priority list, or you don’t mind taking public transport to get there, hostels in Lapa and Santa Teresa (downtown Rio) are cheaper once again. Most hostels in Rio include free breakfast, which is often fairly basic, but will save you eating out.

What to do for free

Rio’s beaches are a flurry of activity and are utterly fascinating. A walk along Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana beaches is as much about people watching as it is about soaking up the sun. You will encounter runners, cyclists and skateboarders, and can watch people playing volleyball, footvolley and paddle boarding. When you venture down onto the sand, hiring beach chairs and umbrellas is popular but optional, and not really necessary if you bring a towel and a hat. If you are hungry, thirsty or feel like buying a new Brazilian style bikini, wave down one of the many people who wander the beach selling snacks and drinks, and in some cases swimwear and clothes. At the end of the day, hundreds of people gather at Ponta Do Arpoador on the eastern side of Ipanema to watch the sun set over the water at the other end of the beach.

A short bus trip from the beaches will bring you to downtown Rio, where you can visit the famous Lapa steps, see the cathedral in the city centre or walk to Santa Teresa.

The “Do It Yourself” city tour

For sightseeing in Rio, a full day city tour includes all of the highlights; Lapa, Cristo Redentor, Pão de Açúcar and Santa Teresa for about $100 USD. However, it’s also possible to visit all of these places yourself for the cost of a bus fare and entry fees. The public bus system in Rio is modern and well organised, and most importantly provides access to the city’s sights at a much lower price. It is easy to navigate with all buses displaying numbers and destinations, and route information shown at bus stops. The use of some basic Portuguese would be beneficial if you want to check you have the right bus or ask the driver to tell you where to get off. Buses from Ipanema and Copacabana go downtown for Lapa and Santa Teresa, and to the entrance points for Pão de Açúcar and Cristo Redentor. A trip to Cristo Redentor by bus cost me approx. $20 USD including the bus fare and tram to the top of the mountain.

Weigh your food

Because my money situation was so precarious in Rio, most of my dinners were from street food vendors after watching the sunset in Ipanema. It was great food that I highly recommend trying, however for something more substantial there is nothing better than Brazil’s unique “weigh your food” restaurants. As with accommodation, restaurants are cheaper in Lapa than at the beaches, and there are plenty to choose from with competitive prices. I stumbled across one when trying to escape the rain before visiting the Lapa steps, and had a fantastic lunch. You will be given a plate, and can fill it up with whatever you think you can eat from the buffet. When you are done, you bring your plate to the cashier who will put it on the scales, subtract the weight of the plate, and tell you the price. Most restaurants offer a rate per 200 grams of food. It’s a great way of making sure you only pay for what you eat – as long as your eyes aren’t bigger than your stomach!

Friday nightlife

A trip to Rio is not complete without visiting Lapa on a Friday night.  Clubs in the area, including the city’s best samba clubs and the famous Rio Scenarium, charge about $20 USD cover, but the best party is outside. The streets are closed to cars, which are replaced by vendors selling street food and drinks, and hundreds of people walking, dancing and taking in the atmosphere. Start the night by getting a drink (approx. $1 USD for beer from the street vendors), and then wander up to the Lapa steps. Squeeze through the crowds and pick a spot on the steps to listen to the samba band that is playing nearby, or try to master the quick footwork by joining in with those dancing. Often the intention to go to a club in Lapa on a Friday night is quickly forgotten when you step out of the taxi and the first sounds of samba drums meet your ears. The Carnaval like vibe of the outdoor festivities and the passion for the music that is the heart and soul of the city make for an unforgettable (and cheap) night out.

Football fever

One of the most popular things to do when visiting Rio is to go to a football game. Hostels will commonly arrange group trips with transport and a guide. Most games are held at Maracanã stadium, but it was closed for World Cup renovations when I was there. There was a game between Flamengo and Botafogo at a different stadium, and I went with some friends. Following the theme of saving money, we decided not to go with the hostel because it was cheaper to buy tickets at the stadium. Getting there was no problem, we caught a subway then a train, and there were trilingual stadium staff to help with buying tickets. The game ended in a 0-0 draw, but was still a lot of fun. The crowd were enthusiastic throughout the whole game, singing, dancing and cheering. Trying to get back after the game was less smooth sailing, and although we made it eventually, things did get a little scary. While saving money is always important, safety ranks higher, so in this situation in the future I would always pay a little bit extra and book through the hostel.

All in all, it's definitely possible to have a GREAT time in Rio on a budget. When I go back later this year it will be at the start of a trip, but I'm still going to pick the cheapest options. However if you want to go hang gliding, there is no way to avoid forking out the $170, enjoy!

Grand Canyon: rim to river (and back) in one day

This post was originally written in 2012

I don’t really have a bucket list, but walking to the Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon is something I have been thinking about since I first came here in August, 2009. That year I decided to helicopter tour in the morning, which didn’t leave enough time to do the trip to the river in the afternoon. I didn’t regret the decision to do the helicopter trip; I just knew it meant I would have to come back, so here I am.

Summer in the Grand Canyon gets very hot, last time I was here it was over 40 degrees celsius when I started walking. There are a few rules posted at various points around the canyon; stay hydrated, eat often, avoid walking between 10 am and 4 pm, rest often in the shade and do not attempt to walk to the river and back in one day. I was only planning to break a couple of those.

My aunt and a friend have both done the round trip to the river in one day, so I knew I would be able to make it. If there was anything I considered dangerous, it wasn’t the distance or staying hydrated, it was the loose rocks I could potentially slip on and fall over the edge.

The distance from the rim to the river on the Bright Angel Trail is 9.5 miles or 15 km, making it a 30 km round trip. On my previous trip I walked to the Indian Garden, which is half way to the river. That took 1.5 hours down and 2 hours back to the top. I was estimating it would take 3.5 hours to get down, and 5 hours to get back up. I told Christina if I wasn’t back by 6 pm she could start worrying. I packed 4 bottles of water, my lunch and a few snacks that I brought the day before, and started walking just before 6 am. The sun was up, but most of the path was still in shade and it was quite cool. I was at the first rest point by 6.20 am.

It's not exactly a secret that I am not great with animals (not counting my dogs). There are squirrels everywhere in the Grand Canyon, and even though I don’t really like them, you get used to them running around. I can’t say the same for the first animal I saw on the trail; a ram that was eating a plant on the edge of the path. I managed to sneak around it without any problems while some people were taking photos.

A little further on, I wasn’t so lucky when I got stung by a flying bug, and it only got worse from there. I arrived at the 3 mile rest point at 6.50 am. The number of people walking up from the river who had camped overnight was starting to increase and the number walking down was getting a lot smaller. I wasn’t far from the Indian Garden when I almost stepped on a snake that was sunbaking on the trail. I had a bad experience with a snake when I walking with my family in Tasmania as a teenager, so I like them even less than squirrels, rams and flying stinging bugs. I had obviously startled it because it started moving across the path, blocking off where I needed to walk.

A few minutes earlier I had passed someone on the path (whose name I later found out is Mark), so I decided to wait until he got there and could solve the snake problem. I wasn't planning to go anywhere until it was well out of the way. He told me it was a rattlesnake, and after it moved off the path we (okay just me) passed it quickly before it could do more damage than the bug. Mark wasn't scared of the snake, and took a few photos. He is rafting for 6 days down the river, but said he will email them to me when he gets back. I’ll post them when I get them.

After that I had someone to walk with, and we arrived at the Indian Garden at 7.15 am. It was a bit earlier than I was expecting, and was still quite cool in the canyon. It's not recommend that you walking past the Indian Garden in summer, and there were a few warning signs about the heat and possible dangers of continuing further. A thermometer in the garden said the temperature at that point was 78 F.

The landscape for the few kilometres after the garden were quite lush and beautiful. We passed a small stream running through the canyon; it was surrounded by trees and rocks jutting out from the walls.

The protection from the trees soon disappears, and the trail resumes cutting through the rocky walls of the canyon. It wasn't long before we were looking over the Devil’s Corkscrew; a section of switchbacks taking you further down into the canyon. It was in shade at the point, but I realised it wouldn’t be by the time I was coming back up. Even though it was still quite early, I could feel the heat setting in. We had a fantastic view of were about to walk, and it put the depth of the canyon into perspective. We were past half way, but I couldn’t see the rim anymore and I couldn't see the river. It was hard to fathom the enormity of the of the whole canyon when I remembered that we were only in one small portion of it.

When we reached the bottom of the Devil's Corkscrew, the trail flattened out. I knew we had to be close; the sound of running water was getting louder. We rounded a corner and the river came into the view, I don’t know if I was happy to have made it or was blown away by how beautiful it was. Probably a bit of both! It was 8.35 am, so my estimation of 3.5 hours was over by about an hour.

We walked onto a small beach by the river and we met PJ, who had walked down from the rim the same morning. I was surprised how cold the water was, but would appreciate it later during the hot walk back up. The current seemed quite strong, I don’t know it if was possible to swim, but I was happy to just get my feet wet.

It felt a bit early for lunch at 9 am, but I hadn’t eaten breakfast so I ate my sandwich anyway. Mark was staying at the river for his rafting trip, but PJ was walking back up. Wanting to avoid as much of the heat as possible, we headed back around 9.10 am. The section between the river and the Indian Garden was supposed to be the hardest part, having to go up the Devil’s Corkscrew which was then in the sun. We made quite good time, and even with a stop to cool off in a small stream, we were at the Indian Garden by 10.30 am. The highest the temperature had gotten was 38 C in the sun, 31 C in the shade.

The Indian Garden is a beautiful part of the canyon. Historically it was used a resting point for tribes that inhabited the area, because of the tall trees protecting it from the heat and the cool breeze that passes through. The garden also has a small pool called Victor’s Oasis, which is surrounded by rocks you can sit on a put your feet in. It was a refreshing spot to sit and relax before the rest of the climb out (and also has taps for those who are running low on water!).

We stayed for almost an hour, and despite feeling pretty good at the time it got a lot harder from there. The last time I walked out from the Indian Garden I felt good the whole way, but the extra 7 km of walking up from the river was starting to take its toll. I was also a lot fitter in 2009; it was only 2 weeks after my best City to Surf. This year I haven’t done any running since May, and even that was nothing impressive.

We pushed through the 3 mile rest point, but stopped at the final one before the rim to refill our water. The top of the canyon still looked fairly far away to me (though PJ said it seemed close!). We estimated about another half an hour of walking, but we were going so slow it seemed a lot longer. I could feel blisters on the bottom of my toes, though we were so close that the excitement of almost having made it overshadowed any pain. We arrived back at the top at 1.45 pm; which was about 4 hours of walking time on the way up. Exhaustion kicked in later that afternoon after the most important thing, a celebratory drink, had been taken care of.

The experience was amazing, and even though it was tough I'm glad to have done it. The river was beautiful and the canyon itself is stunning. I’m not sure any words or photos can do it justice, I think it is something that can only be explained by seeing it yourself.
Would I go back? Absolutely. Would I walk to the river and back in a day again? Once was definitely enough! If I go back, I would camp at the river overnight, or walk to a waterfall or springs in a different part of the canyon.

Now for my disclaimer: the official advice from the Grand Canyon National Park is not to attempt a trip to the river in one day. The warnings should be taken seriously. The Bright Angel trail is a 30 km round trip to the river, including 15 km of walking uphill, most with little or no shade. The people I know who have done the round trip in a day are experienced runners, bushwalkers or riders. If you are unsure, it is better to camp overnight at the river. This blog is a description of my experience, not a recommendation to attempt the trip.

Conquering Cerro Chirripo

This post was originally written in 2103

Ever since bad weather prevented me from climbing Volcan Baru in Panama in 2011, I've been thinking about going back to do it. There is something special about the idea of ascending a peak so high that on a clear day allows you to see the ocean on both sides of the country.

In January this year, I got the chance to do one better, Cerro Chirripo, the highest peak in Costa Rica. At 3800m, 400m higher than Baru, this was always going to be a challenge. I wasn't worried about the altitude because I had been higher in Peru with no problems, but was trying to determine the possibility of making the trip to the summit and back in a day. The recommended way is to climb the first 14 km, and stay overnight at the lodge that is situated there, then do the remaining 5 km the following day.

This presented a few challenges; the limited number of park permits meant reserving space in the lodge well in advance or camping at the ranger station to attempt to get one of 10 last minute passes. This, combined with a recommendation I had been given not to attempt it in a day, led me to do the exact opposite.

After picking up our day passes and buying snacks to take with us, my dad and I got an early night so we could begin our trek at 3 am the following day. Officially 38.2 km return (I'd say it was actually closer to 40 km) and 2.5 km of climbing (starting at 1300 m and going up to 3800 m), this would surpass the Grand Canyon and the toughest thing I've ever done.

Racing against the clouds to make it to the summit before the view disappeared, we arrived at the lodge (14 km) just before 8 am. The first 5 km had been mostly uphill, before it leveled out slightly, then started an intense, unrelenting climb for about 4 km between 8 and 12 km. We were walking in the dark until about the 9 km mark, and were treated to amazing views of the Southern Cross just above the horizon (in the northern hemisphere!).

The last kilometre before reaching the lodge was the hardest part of the whole climb. After a strenuous climb to reach 3000 m, the trail does a cruel descent after the 12 km mark. It was disheartening as all our hard work was seemingly undone, and we knew we would have to do it all over again. I don't think that what I was doing after the 13 km sign appeared even counts as walking, it was more like plodding, and took everything I had to get to 14 km.

After stopping for breakfast and checking in with the ranger, we started the last 5 km (I'm sure it was really 6 km), to the summit. The race against the clouds was truly on, we could see them coming in our direction from the Pacific side of the country. Following multiple incorrect guesses about which peak we were climbing, the summit finally came into view. After a few quick photos, we made it up the last, almost vertical, 100 m by 10 am and we were rewarded with near perfect 360 degree views.

There were a few clouds on the Pacific side, but we could see the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Panamanian mountains to the south, and as far as the active Volcan Irazu in the north, which was sending thick, white smoke into the sky. We also had a great view of the lakes nestled on either side of the peak.

We took pictures, signed the guestbook and chatted with the locals who had also made it to the top. At only a few meters wide, and higher than anything else we could see around, the summit was a magical spot, and we ended up staying there for about an hour. There was something extremely peaceful about eating an early lunch in this isolated place, with only the falcons whizzing by for company. It was a surreal feeling that we were alone, standing on the highest point in Costa Rica, worlds away from the rest of the country bustling below us. We were the last people who made it the summit that day, and with the cloud increasing as we left I wouldn't have wanted to arrive any later.

The way back down started off easier. With no need to worry about the clouds, we took our time and stopped for several rest breaks. With about 8 km to go, I could feel blisters on the side and underneath my toes. From that point on, it was an increasing form of torture, even harder to deal with than the most challenging uphill sections.

I couldn't get back fast enough, for no other reason than to take off my shoes, and arrived back at 4:30 pm, making the day a 13.5 hour round trip. I haven't run a marathon yet, but when I do and I'm feeling tired, I'm going to think of Chirripo. I don't think I will ever find a physical activity more challenging, and that was definitely a once in a lifetime experience.. I am never doing it again!

Accommodation: Hotel Uran (located in San Gerardo 50 m from the trailhead)
Getting there: Bus (2 hours, 1,500 colones) or taxi (half an hour, $30/15,000 colones) from San Isidro
Passes: Stop at the ranger station at the entrance to San Gerardo, cost is $15 for 2 days or $10 for one day (per person). Overnight passes and lodge reservations must be done a few days in advance

8 things to do in Beijing

This post was originally written in 2013

This post has taken me so much longer than I wanted it to because life has caught up with me lately, and I combined two topics to make it 8 things. Writing about China actually reminds me of my current travel dilemma; go back to Asia and see some new countries or go back to Brazil for the World Cup. Hard problem to have!

On that note, here are my top 8 things to do in Beijing.

The Great Wall of China

This was the number 1 item on my list for my trip to China. I considered doing the Great Wall marathon because it was about a week before I arrived, but decided against it. In hindsight, it was a great decision. I think I will stick to road running when I do my first marathon.

The Great Wall is truly one of the most amazing things I've ever seen. Only two hours outside of the city, it could have easily been another world. Crowded streets and smoggy skies were replaced with green mountains stretching in every direction and the stone wall running along them one of the only structures in sight. I visited the Mutianyu section, which consists of a 2.5 km restored stretch of wall open for visitors to explore and 22 watchtowers at 100m intervals. This section of the wall was used to defend the capital and nearby tombs. Merlons are built into both sides of the wall, meaning shots could be fired on enemies approaching from either direction. With less visitors than other sections of the wall, we managed to get moments to ourselves for some spectacular photos.

We caught the cable car up, although it is possible to walk, and one reason I don't want to do the Great Wall marathon became obvious straight away - it's hot in May. The second one also became obvious very quickly, some sections are very steep. My competitive nature compelled me to climb the steps to the highest point on this section of the wall, though there is no way I would ever want to do that as part of a race. The view was well worth the effort, the Mutianyu section is surrounded by an abundance of greenery covering the mountains and valleys on either side of the wall.

Entry - 45 RMB

Cable Car return - 80 RMB

Ming Tombs

A total of 13 tombs belonging to Emperor's of the Ming Dynasty are scattered around Beijing. I visited Changling Tomb, the first and most well preserved of the Ming Tombs. Located about 50 kilometers from Beijing, Changling Tomb can be combined with the Great Wall for a fantastic day trip out of the city. Changling Tomb is the tomb of Emperor Zhu Di, the most significant emperor of the Ming Dynasty and his empress. The tomb was completed in 1427, and occupies an area of approximately 120,000 square meters.

The main building of the tomb, Ling’en Hall, is made from a rare kind of wood that has been preserved from the Ming Dynasty. The hall features an impressive statue of Emperor Zhu Di, sitting on a throne decorated with dragons. The room is filled with a collection of objects and photos detailing the achievements of Emperor Zhu Di, including moving the capital to Beijing and constructing the Forbidden City.

Forbidden City

The Forbidden City, or Imperial Palace, was home to 24 emperors during the Ming and Qing dynasties. You could spend a full day, or more, exploring the city, but my tight schedule in Beijing meant we had an afternoon to fit in as much as possible. Construction of the city began in 1406 when Emperor Zhu Di moved the capital back to Beijing from Nanjing in southern China. The palace was remained the political centre of China until 1912, despite damage to parts of the city during the shift between the Ming and Qing dynasties, and occupation by foreign forces in the second Opium War and Boxer Rebellion. After becoming a World Heritage Site, the Palace Museum commences a restoration project to return the city to its historical state.

Consisting of massive courtyards and impressive palaces, the city seems to stretch on forever. The restoration project means the buildings boast striking colours and detailed patterns that give the site a distinct visual appeal. The gardens at the back of the site offer a shady retreat from the sunny courtyards that was a welcome escape on the 36 degree summer day I visited. Featuring smaller pavilions and unique statues, it is easy to get lost in imagining what life may have been like for the Emperors and Empresses who lived in the palace.

Entry - 60 RMB

Tiananmen Square

Across the road from the Forbidden City is Tiananmen Square. Both are easy to access using Beijing’s subway, and their close proximity to each other makes for a good day trip. In contrast to the quiet, somber feel when I visited Plaza de las Tres Culturas in Mexico City, it’s hard to associate the square with its infamous history. Despite the heat, the area was crowded with a flurry of activity. The Monument to the People’s Heroes stands tall in the centre of the square, with visitors huddled around for photos. Groups of people gathered around food vendor vans and laughter and chatter from the crowd could be heard ringing out across the square. The lack of chairs and trees in the square meant people were lined in the small strips of shade provided by lampposts and flagpoles as they waited for the symbolic lowering of the flags at sunset.

The square is surrounded by a number of important buildings in addition to the Forbidden City. The National Museum of China is one side, while the Great Hall of the People stands on the other. The only indication of the events that have taken place in the square is the heavy security, including the vast police presence and bag scanning at entrance points.

Summer Palace

I almost couldn't believe it when I was told that the Summer Palace was bigger than the Forbidden City. It seemed impossible that anything could compare with the mammoth stretch of buildings and courtyards that made up the Forbidden City, but it didn't take long to see that the Summer Palace definitely did. The literal translation of the name means “Gardens of Nurtured Harmony”. I'm not sure why that didn't make it into the English name, but Summer Palace sounds impressive enough to represent what this stunning site has to offer.

The Summer Palace is a former imperial palace and was later a holiday resort for Empress Dowager, who saw the reconstruction of the palace after it was damaged during the Anglo-French invasion in 1860 and the eight allied nations invasion in 1900. Centered around the man made Kunming Lake, the palace features a collection of temples, houses and bridges, lined with leafy gardens. The picturesque setting heightens the feeling of retreat from the outside world, the hustle and bustle of one of the world's busiest cities seemingly miles away. Rising above the lake are the site's most iconic buildings, the Temple of Buddhist Virtue and the Tower of Buddhist Incense. The climb to the top rewards you will views over the lake, it's best on a clear day.

Entry - 50 RMB

The Gardens of Perfect Brightness

Otherwise known as the old Summer Palace, this was something I will admit to having no knowledge of before going to Beijing, but something that is an extremely important part of China's history and worth visiting. Like the nearby Summer Palace, the beauty of this location is undeniable. The palace was used by emperors of the Qing Dynasty and contained extensive architecture, lakes and gardens. One of the gardens, the Garden of Eternal Spring featured European style buildings, which were built at the request of the Qianlong Emperor. However the majority of buildings that made up the palace were traditional Chinese style structures.

In response to a group of British and Indian troops being taken hostage and killed during the second Opium War, the palace was destroyed by British and French troops. The garden was set ablaze and burnt for three days and the buildings were looted. The palace was destroyed again in 1900 during the Eight Nation Alliance invasion. Unlike the Summer Palace, this garden was not restored after the attacks, and visitors can see the full effect of the destruction with damaged buildings left in the condition that resulted from the invasions.

Entry - 25 RMB

Beijing Olympic Park

The few weeks leading up to and during the Olympics were in Sydney in 2000 were some of the most exciting I have ever experienced. I was in the torch relay, participated in a "trial run" of the athletics prior to competition starting and was in the stadium for Cathy Freeman's gold medal run. The Olympics holds a special place in my heart, and a visit to Beijing Olympic Park was a must do for my trip.

The iconic "Bird's Nest" stadium is as impressive up close as it is on television, and the fountains dancing in front of it make for a great people watching opportunity. The water cube is best viewed at night when its striking blue colour is illuminated. Walking to the cauldron will take you past a long wall listing the medalists from 2008 - searching through the names to see who you can find might be slightly nerdy, but was also a lot of fun.

Eat Local!

Watching bizarre foods Beijing the other night was a good reminder of some of the interesting street food in this city. I didn’t go to the night markets, but visited Wangfujing pedestrian street with its famous snack street. The narrow street is tightly packed with crowds and an almost overwhelming mix of wafting scents coming from the countless street stalls and restaurants. Those brave enough to try anything will not be disappointed - seahorses, starfish and various kinds of bugs on skewers were in almost every store. I’ve seen my fair share of unusual snacks in Central American markets, but I wasn’t prepared for the scorpion skewers, with the still live animals wiggling around on the sticks as we walked by.

I went for a much safer option with my street food purchase, choosing a lamb skewer and a fruit skewer that consisted of a small red fruit covered in hardened candy (Tanghulu). My dentist might have been horrified if they saw it, but it tasted amazing.

Another must try item is Beijing's famous Peking Duck. Served in China since the Imperial times, Peking Duck is known for the crisp skin and unique style of serving where the duck is sliced in front of the diners. The meat and skin are served separately, the skin often eaten with various sauces. The meat is rolled up into a think pancake and eaten with cucumber sticks. There are many restaurants throughout Beijing that serve Peking Duck. We ate at Bianyifang, one of the longest serving duck restaurants in Beijing, currently located in the New World Shopping Mall.

What not to do when you come back from travelling

A friend of mine is coming back to Australia this weekend after almost 2 years out of the country travelling and working. Last time we talked, she told me she wasn’t sure if she is ready to come back – a feeling I have had when each of my trips has come to a close.

Every long term traveller returning home will encounter the question at some point whether they want to pick up and head off again. The answer to that question for me was a definite “yes” before my second and third trips to Latin America, and it’s always an appealing option. But when you choose that option, it’s important to make sure it’s for the right reasons. My “yes” decision before my fourth Latin America trip last year definitely wasn’t. So here are my 10 recommendations of what not to do when you return home from travelling!

1. Don’t confuse a travel romance with a potential real relationship. If the only way you communicate is on Facebook, it’s a travel romance.

2. Don’t hold on to your travel romances, they will never turn into relationships. Connections formed with your fellow backpackers on the road operate in an endless honeymoon period. And I can guarantee that the [insert activity] instructor you had a fling with in [insert exotic country] has met a hundred other girls since you left.

3. Don’t plan to go back and work in a certain city or country if any part of the reason for going is to see one of your travel flings again. I know that you have totally always wanted to live overseas, and you were totally thinking about it before you met him, so it totally wouldn’t be a big deal to pick the dirty, dodgy city in his country over the far more appealing, cosmopolitan capital next door, right? Wrong! Only go if it’s completely for your own reasons.

4. Don’t fork out a decent amount of money for an ESL teaching qualification to create your own reason. (And if you do, at least make sure you like teaching so you can use it at home!)

5. Don’t lie to yourself about 1, 2, 3 or 4.

6. Don’t start dating someone who reminds you of the guys you met travelling. Just because they speak a certain language, like to dance and know all the songs on your playlist, doesn’t make them the right person for you.

7. Don’t rush into booking your next trip. In the few weeks leading up to going home, all you will be thinking about is when you are going back. Another trip might be the right decision, but you don’t need to put your next flight on your credit card just after you come back because there was a sale. If you really want to go, you will still want to go when the travel bubble isn’t clouding your judgment.

8. Don’t actively try to stay in the travel bubble. Just because someone doesn’t speak a certain language, doesn’t like to dance and doesn’t know a single song on your playlist, doesn’t make them less interesting.

9. Don’t be indecisive. Once you have made a decision to go, don’t complicate it by looking for reasons to stay. If there is any part of you that would wonder “what if..?”, you’re not ready to hand in your backpacker card.

10. Don’t be too hard on yourself when you realise how delusional you were for breaking the first nine rules!!

Despite everything, my last trip ended up being pretty awesome :) And funnily enough, nothing on this list was a problem when I came back!